We have a Mariner 31 sailboat, and we sailed it from California to New Zealand in 2011. Jared got his PhD and Christine did a Master's at the University of Auckland's Leigh Marine Laboratory while living on the boat. Then we had a baby, and now we're selling the boat. We're not updating the blog much these days.
Monday, February 21, 2011
Architeuthis the Movie
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Squib Had a Rough Night
My grandpa used to refer to squid as 'squib'. We were never able to determine if he thought the word was spelled with a 'b' at the end or if it was some sort of strange California central valley pronunciation deal but I eventually decided I liked the word squib. Since Architeuthis is named after the giant squid, we decided that Squib would be a good name for the little inflatable boat that we use to get to shore and back when Architeuthis is anchored. We've come to depend on squib quite a bit and we use her just about every day. When we're anchored out near the point (Punta Mita) Squib ferries us back and forth to the surf spots and he takes us shopping when we're anchored at La Cruz. Despite how useful he is, we tend to take Squib for granted.
We were anchored out at Punta Mita last weekend and after a fun afternoon of surfing with our new friend Cori (a recent UCSC graduate - go banana slugs!) we went over to her parents' boat Rutea to visit after dark. After about 2 and 1/2 hours of swapping life stories, drinking beer, and depleting their candy stocks, we mosied out onto the back deck to hop into squib and go home. Squib was not there! She had run off into the night and left us feeling like we had just lost our only child. Our hearts sank and our stomachs gurlged as we quickly came to grips with what this could mean for us. We all sprang into action, lowering Rutea's dingy into the water and fueling her up to start the initial reconnaissance mission under a moonless night sky. There was no real wind to speak of so we tried to remember which way it had been blowing when we arrived on the boat a few hours earlier. We searched in the direction we thought was most likely the path that squib had taken, but with no moon and a spotlight that lasted a whopping 3 or 4 minutes before it died, we were unable to see anything other than what was directly under our bow. We made increasingly bigger circles around Rutea for about and hour before we called it quits due to the extremely poor visibility. After Neal, Rutea's captain, dropped us off on Architeuthis, we flipped the radar on and saw a blip that we decided we had to check out. We pulled anchor and motored towards the blip. It promptly disappeared but we tried for a little while anyway out of shear desperation. After our fruitless search we finally re-anchored and tried to get some sleep.
At first light the next morning, Neal came over to take us out searching again. We followed the edge of the beach first because the wind had been blowing slightly onshore. The light was still dim since the sun hadn't yet made it above the horizon and we struggled to differentiate rocks from not rocks. Not seeing it, we headed offshore and covered a lot of ground for the next hour or so. We talked to a couple local fishermen and asked them to keep an eye out for us. We checked the beach again, this time yelling out to some gringos walking out to the point for a surf. We asked if they had seen any sign of a dingy on the beach. They hadn't but said they would keep an eye out. We thanked them and moved on. We took a break on Rutea and Ruthie, Neal's wife, made us some tea while Neal conducted drift experiments in his dingy. He and the cushion Ruthie threw moved about a meter during the the 20-30 minute break. Then we went out looking one last time. Neal stayed behind on Rutea, but was kind enough to let us use his super fast dingy to keep searching. We headed towards the point to check around the other side. We passed by some surfers in the water and what looked like an anchored dingy nearby. The dingy had not been there before and it looked like it had a white outboard cover, so we did not get close enough to investigate. We searched all over for another hour with near perfect conditions making it a perfect day for finding a stray dingy. If it was out there we should have seen it. We had gone pretty far and we were about to turn around and head back and Christine started crying. I stopped the dingy and we consoled each other for a few minutes. We had given up. We thought Squib was gone forever.
Back on Rutea, Ruthie fed us and Neal insisted that we borrow their two-man inflatable kayak until we replaced Squib. Neal and I were up on the fore-deck setting up the kayak and Christine was looking contemplatively out to sea. All of sudden she started shouting, "Is that a dingy towing a dingy? That's a dingy towing a dingy! That's a dingy towing a dingy!" We jumped back into Rutea's dingy and motored over to the dingy towing the dingy. It was Squib! We were elated and relieved beyond belief. The kid in the other dingy was Nick from the sailboat Scout. He informed us that Christian from the sailboat Altair had been one of the surfers we had yelled to on the beach and had found the dingy shortly after speaking with us. It had been upside-down in the shallow rocky area near-shore. Since we had secured the bitter end of Squib's anchor rhode, the anchor was holding it there and not letting it get pushed all the way up onto the beach. Christian somehow manage to right Squib in the shallow surgy waters and he pulled her out to deeper water using the anchor line. Then he tossed the anchor out further and further until squib was out of harm's way, and left her there while he went surfing. The dingy we had seen on our last search mission, anchored near the surf break, had been Squib! What had looked like a white engine cover had been Squib's internal gas tank which sits on top of the engine. The dark blue cover had come off of course! Christian had found it and put it back in the dingy, and the external gas tank that we just bought a few weeks ago managed to stay with the dingy as well. All that was missing were the oars, the bench seat, and the manual bilge pumps. We were so overjoyed and grateful that we told the definitely underage Nick that we owed him a beer or three. We promptly realized that his parents would probably not appreciate our encouragement of juvenile delinquency and switched our offer to root beer. He laughed and drove back to his boat while we inspected the damage to Squib.
The inflatable itself looked practically untouched. It showed no signs of leaking air and minimal scuff marks. The outboard had taken the brunt of the beating since the dingy had been upside-down the whole time it was in the shallow rocky area. The fuel pump was clearly broken and salt water had gotten into everything. I have revived other completely submerged outboards in the past though, so I was optimistic about bringing Squib's outboard back to life. We decided to take a quick walk along the beach to look for the missing items before I delved into fixing the outboard. As we neared the point, Christine spotted all of our missing stuff in a neat little pile under a tree. Nearby, a spear fisher was cleaning his gear and we quickly realized that he had found our things. We communicated with him as best we could since our spanish is still very bad, but he eventually understood the gist of what had happened and that the oars and dingy seat he had found were ours. We walked with him back to the dingy landing and gave him a little money in gratitude for finding our stuff for us. Along the way we made fast friends with him. Truz is a life-long Punta Mita resident who hunts the sea for a living. On that day he had a bag full of freshly caught octopus and I showed him my squid tattoo which he seemed to like a lot. He used to live further out on the point where the Four Seasons resort and golf course are now, but was one of the many residents who were forced off their land by the government. The money for the land went mostly into the hands of the Presidente, with a small amount being given to those who agreed to leave their land peacefully. Now he lives above the restaurant he sells his catch to on the beach at El Anclote.
With everything recovered, and now working (after a few days of parts shopping and engine fixing), we feel like the luckiest unlucky people ever! Best of all, we made some great new friends. The crew of Rutea feels almost like family to us now. Christian and Nick will always be welcome aboard Architeuthis and we hope to cross paths with them both again and again. Truz will never be forgotten either and we hope to get back out to Punta Mita one last time to thank him and maybe even learn some hunting tricks. We also learned some valuable lessons. We will never take Squib for granted again and we will always double check the cleat hitch! What exactly happened will always be a mystery, but we like to think that Squib just really wanted to go surfing... at night. Hopefully she got it out of her system.
Sunday, January 30, 2011
Chainplate Repair and Ham Radio License Test.
We just finished one repair that's been nagging at us for a while. We had a problem with our bobstay chainplate. (The bobstay is the bit of rigging (wire cable) that attaches to the bottom of the bowsprit (pointy wooden thing on the bow) and the chainplate is the bronze piece that attaches that cable to the hull). If this chainplate were to break while we were sailing, it would probably cause both masts to break off boat and fall in the water. That would be unfortunate. The chainplate wasn't in immediate danger of breaking but it was bent and that's not the kind of thing I like to see going on up there before crossing the Pacific.
We decided that the best way to fix the problem was to add another bolt to the chainplate to hold it to the hull. This would require drilling a hole through bronze and fiberglass at an angle that would put the drill underwater. Electric drills don't work so good underwater and, at first, I didn't think my hand operated "egg beater" drill would be powerful enough to do the job. We resigned ourselves to having to go to the boatyard in Puerto Vallarta and pay around $700 to haul out and make the repair out of the water. Then I had to drill a hole in a piece of bronze for another minor project so I decided to give it a try with the egg beater drill. It worked fine so I decided to rethink the haul-out requirement for the repair.
There was a bit of bus travel required to round up all the necessary parts and tools but once that was all taken care of, we were able to do the repair in the marina in a single day! As you can see from the photos, it was a bit awkward to drill a hole in the boat from under the water but it worked out fine and was way better than forking over that much cash. We also had to move all 200 feet of anchor chain (and the anchor) to the stern to get our bow high enough but, again, that's way easier that spending $700.
Once that project was all wrapped up, we had to jump into cramming for the ham radio license test. The yacht club down in Nuevo Vallarta hosted the test. We had wanted to get our licenses before we left the US but ended up running out of time. The stuff we want to do requires the general license and, in order to get that license, you have to get the technician license first so we had to study for both tests. We got up early, spent about an hour on the bus getting down there and took the tests. I took the technician test and failed it by two questions. Damn. However, they give you the option to pay the $16 fee again and retake it (with a different set of questions). I was feeling lucky so I decided to give it a try. Besides, I'd spent more time studying for the general license and felt like I'd have a better chance with that test if I could just make it past the technician test. Meanwhile, Christine finished her technician test and failed it by just one question. She didn't feel at all prepared for the general license test so she decided not to retake the first level.
It turned out that the second version of the technician test they gave me was quite a bit easier than the first and I passed by two questions. Having passed that one, it was free to take a crack at the general license. I took it and found myself guessing at far more of the answers than I would have liked. Apparently, I guessed well though because I passed. ...just barely - if I missed one more question, I would have failed - but I passed. It was quite a relief to finally get that taken care of. Now I will be able to use all the capabilities of our fancy HF radio. Well, I'll be able too once we finish installing it anyway. I think we have all the parts we need. It should be just a matter of bolting everything in place and wiring it all up. We intend to have that all taken care of by the end of the month. It might be sooner except that we just bought a used wind vane self steering system. We got a great deal on it and it will mean that we won't have to run our electronic autopilot across the whole Pacific. That, in turn, means that our solar panels should be able to easily take care of all our electricity needs and we won't have to run the engine to keep our batteries charged. On the down side, this thing isn't going to install itself. More on that process later.
Thursday, January 20, 2011
There's swell coming!
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
Los Arcos
Monday, January 10, 2011
Surfing our brains out
We kept up our twice a day surfing routine until Christine's birthday on the 8th. Then we decided to head back to La Cruz to have some birthday dinner and get some shore based chores done. We ended up at Philo's for dinner due to our gringo craving for pizza. Had the pleasure of some more live entertainment while there since Philo's band was playing. Leon was the highlight of the night, with his washboard, cow bell, and charismatic disposition. There was a belly dance performance during the band's break to change it up a little. Barb would have loved it! Some old fart with a sweater tied over his shoulders got up to dance with her for a while. Very entertaining to say the least.
Yesterday we went on a mission to Bucerias to find some spare surf stuff. When none could be found, we wandered around and ended up at a bar on the beach called Sunset drinking delicious 2 for 1 margaritas. A live band started up shortly thereafter playing covers of the Dead and the Band to name a few. Wish the rest of the Donahues could have been there with us! They would have loved it. As I type right now, a band is playing across the street at Ana Banana's covering every famous classic rock song there ever was. Are you seeing the trend? With the overwhelming majority of gringos in town being over 50, it really isn't all that surprising I guess.
(Please note that all comments that might, in any way, appear at all complementary towards the Grateful Dead were written by Christine, not Jared)
Sunday, January 09, 2011
We've been out surfing
Saturday, January 01, 2011
New Year's and a Move from La Cruz to Punta Mita
In the morning we picked up the anchor and sailed out to the anchorage at Punta Mita to spend some time closer to the surf. We saw a bunch of whales, dolphins, and sea birds again. I keep hoping the whales will do their jumping out of the water stunts close enough that I can get some good pictures with my not-so-telephoto lens but no luck so far. Other than waiting for that, we're getting so acclimated to humpback whales that we don't even pay that much attention to them any more. "Hey Christine, there's another whale over there." "Whatever." Okay, we're still not that jaded but we're getting close.
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
More Pictures from La Cruz
Saturday, December 25, 2010
Look at the Map!
Monday, December 20, 2010
Islas Tres Marietas day trip.
We got out to the islands a bit later than we had intended to (probably around 2pm or so) but that turned out to be a good thing because the tour boats were just leaving. When we dropped anchor there were only three other sailboats in the area and, as far as I could tell, those people all stayed aboard the whole time. We, on the other hand, jumped in the water to snorkel up close to the island except for Christine's parents who manned the dingy and rowed over to take a look. It was a volcanic rock bottom with some corals here and there and a bunch of cool looking tropical fish. We took some pictures with Christine's little camera in its underwater housing but we haven't downloaded them yet.
After BBQing some burgers on Architeuthis' grill, we sailed back to La Cruz and got into the harbor a little after sunset. It was a great trip and we hope to spend a little more time out at the islands looking around soon.
Sunday, December 19, 2010
Beach Day in La Cruz with the Donahues
Saturday, December 18, 2010
We Made it.
We are now at anchor in La Cruz, Mexico. I've uploaded some blog entries without pictures. I'll be adding that stuff to those posts in a day or two. We had a great time and we're really happy to be somewhere we can rest for a while.
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
Windy, Warm, Icky, and Windy Again.
As we approached Cabo San Lucas from the northwest, it got windier and windier until it was blowing in the 18 – 25 kts range. We started out the day with the genoa poled out to windward and both the mizzen and the main up. Then we dropped the mizzen. Then we dropped the main. Then we rolled in to the first reef point on the genoa. We finally rounded the cape enough to get out of the wind and it was really warm and, as we approached the famous rocks near the harbor entrance, Cabo San Lucas looked lovely. Then we got closer and saw the swarms of tourists. What a circus. There were glass bottom boats pulling within inches of the rocks, a fake submarine thingy, parachutes being towed behind boats, water taxis, kayaks and dozens of jet skis weaving in and out of everything. These are all things one might rightly expect to see in a resort town but the shear numbers of them was overwhelming. Cabo was starting to look pretty bad and it was about to get worse.
We motored into the harbor and up to the fuel dock. There was more boat traffic than I've seen anywhere and there were these really frightening party barge things everywhere blaring awful pop music while pasty and/or sunburned gringos gyrated drunkenly. If modern day Las Vegas had a harbor it would look just like this place. There was a Hooters restaurant right across from the fuel dock and nothing in view anywhere that wasn't designed for the sole purpose of separating tourists from their money. We bought our fuel and couple five gallon jugs of drinking water. I made a few adjustments to the rigging (the headstay had been looking a bit floppy on the way in), and then we got out of there as quickly as possible.
We motored for an hour or so south of Cabo headed across to mainland Mexico near Puerto Vallarta until the wind picked up. Man, did it ever pick up. Within a couple of hours it must have been blowing at least 25 kts with gusts to 30 or more. We were running under just our double reefed genoa. Before we reefed it, I got the opportunity to feel what an overpowered boat is like. It doesn't handle too well. The seas got up to around 8 feet or more and were really steep and uncomfortable. It made for a pretty crappy and restless night but Architeuthis behaved herself quite well and things calmed down by early morning.
Sunday, December 12, 2010
This is better
There's one thing I forgot to mention in the last post about the big lumpy seas. It was damned cold. We were wearing all the warmest clothes that we brought and we were wearing them all at once. Today was much much warmer and it was sunny too. It was probably about 75 degrees or so. The seas are much flatter too. The only down side is that the wind has been a bit flaky and, because we're in a hurry, we've had to motor a lot and we might have to stop in Cabo San Lucas to buy more fuel. We managed to get the lee cloth finished and installed. It makes sleeping on the rolling boat much nicer and we really could have used it a couple of days ago. Oh well.
The nights have been beautiful. I really love being able to see so many stars. There's nothing like the night sky when your out of sight of land with no streetlights to get in the way. The sky in Santa Barbara doesn't even look like the same sky.
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Big lumpy seas
We knew we were in for it when we left Ensenada but, damn it, we're on a schedule. We don't want Christine's family showing up in Puerto Vallarta and having to wait several days for us to arrive. So we Ensenada at about 8am on the 9th knowing there was a small craft advisory. We consider Architeuthis to be more of a medium craft. What she lacks in size is made up for in seaworthy-ness. So we motored out past Isla Todos Santos, a famous big wave surf spot (we didn't actually go in sight of the break though), and around Punta Banda before we got some wind. The swell was decent sized (around 5 to 7 feet) but the wind was pretty mild (10 - 15 knots). We couldn't really make the direct southerly course we wanted because we couldn't keep the sails filled with the swell right on our beam so we headed southwest and further offshore (it's good to have sea room if there's gonna be stinky weather anyway).
It got kind of yucky out there. The seas got up around around 10ft or so with lots of confused wind chop and general crappyness and stayed that way for around 2 days. Winds probably reached 25 knots or more. It was an uncomfortable couple of days. It was tough to sleep, tough to eat, tough to just move around on the boat and do anything. On the up side, Architeuthis handled it like a champ. The autopilot was always able to steer the course we set but did eat up a lot of electricity doing it. Our dinghy and surfboards started to get a little loose on deck but we were able to crawl out there and snug them down before they got away. We didn't take any significant whitewater on deck despite the breaking waves around us. The other good news was that we were making over 6 knots almost the whole time.
Wednesday, December 08, 2010
Unplanned stop in Ensenada
We headed almost due south from Ventura and went past Santa Barbara island (in the dark) and outside San Clemente Island (also in the dark). The plan was to just stay way offshore, pass by the inside of Guadeloupe Island, then turn east, head past Cabo San Lucas, and straight to Puerto Vallarta and have that be our port of entry for Mexico. Sometime around noon on the 7th, Christine noticed that our mizzen mast (the smaller mast toward the back of the boat for all you landlubbers) was twisting when we rolled from side to side. It was because of the weight of the wind generator that we'd just mounted up there. I knew the thing was kind of heavy but I hadn't really anticipated it having as much effect as it did. Christine questioned whether it might be too heavy from the get-go but I thought it would be fine. I should have known better. As soon as we finished installing it, you could feel a change in the boat's motion - even while still tied to the dock. At sea, it definitely exaggerated the boat's tendency to roll. I was willing to live with that in exchange for the extra charging capacity (partly because I'd already gone so far down the road of buying, having a lovely custom mount made up for it, and installing the damned thing) but this mast twisting business was the last straw. We decided that the wind generator had to go.
Since pulling that thing down off the mast isn't really the kind of thing you can safely do at sea, we decided to head into Ensenada and take care of our entry paperwork there as well. We picked motored into Cruiseport Village Marina at about 9am. We pick that marina kind of randomly but I think we chose well. Jonathan, who runs the place, was extremely helpful. He drove us and another carload of cruisers over to the Centro Integral de Servicios building when we could take care of all our entry paperwork. Apparently this is one of the few ports (the only one, perhaps) that has all of the agencies you need to deal with for you entry in one building. Given our extremely poor Spanish, our sleep deprived states of mind, and the bureaucratic nature of the process, it was amazingly helpful to have all this stuff in one building and to have Jonathan there to help us out. The whole process took an hour or two as it was but I could easily imagine it taking all day (or longer) in another port without help.
Once we got back to the boat, we immediately set about removing the offending wind generator. It turned out that Mark, whom we knew from the Ventura Harbor Boat Yard, was in the same Marina and, being the gregarious guy he is, knew everyone there. With his help we took the wind generator around to all the other boats to see if anyone wanted to take it off our hands. We found a buyer almost instantly and sold the generator and its charge controller. Of course we took a big loss compared to what we paid for it but it was worth it not to have to deal with lugging it around. Unfortunately, the buyer's boat was not a ketch so we still have a beautifully crafted stainless steel mount that we'll have to try and sell once we get to Puerto Vallarta.
With that all dealt with, we turned to the issue of fuel. The only accessible fuel dock in Ensenada was several miles in the wrong direction from where we were so we'd have to fill up using Jerry cans. We determined that we needed 20 gallons and we have only a single 5 gallon Jerry can. We really didn't want to make four trips to the gas station so we asked around the other boats. Dan, who bought our wind generator, had a bunch of full Jerry cans so he gave us four full ones and told us to put that in our boat, refill them and bring them back to him. Another cruiser (oddly enough also named Dan), offered lend us his car. I was hesitant to set off uninsured in an unfamiliar town in an unfamiliar country so he very graciously agreed to drive us to the gas station. Overall, it was great to see how well cruisers take care of each other and, having now been on the receiving end, we'll do our best to help out others when we get the chance.
After all that, it was great to get a good night's sleep on a stationary Architeuthis and we were able to set out at about 8am for a hopefully uneventful and nonestop passage to Puerto Vallart where we will meet Christine's family who will be arriving on December 18th. Hopefully we'll be there when they arrive but this isn't like taking a train. It's a little bit harder to predict when we'll get into the station.
Sunday, December 05, 2010
We are finally leaving!
Sorry about the lack of pictures but we don't have a proper Internet connection right now so I am posting this from my (soon to be without service) iPhone. Huge thank yos to all the great people who have helped us out so much over the last few months. Disun, Gabe, Freddy, Chris, Will, Chad, the other Will, John, Preston, my mom and dad, and Chrstine's parents. All of you (and the others that I'm forgetting to list) are awesome and we owe you big time. Most of all, thank you Christine. Thank you for being such a bad ass and sharing my obsession so enthusiastically. I love you.
(Image added after the post. That's us leaving Ventura harbor. A friend happened to see us leaving and sent the photo to us later.)
Friday, November 12, 2010
We are Very Busy
In other news we have the masts off the boat right now (pictures later). Christine's brother Will came down and helped us out with stripping the hardware and old varnish. Then our friend Disun came down from Moss Landing. He was down for about five days and did an awesome job of helping us prep the masts for a couple coats of epoxy and the first coat of Awlbrite (a fancy extra durable three part varnish). We found a great welder (http://www.prestonsprecisionmetalcraft.com/) and he's working on new spreader tangs, masthead fitting repairs, and a mount for our wind generator. He's also going to come out to the boat and extend some of our stainless rails so we can mount our solar panels. We've also got several dozen small projects going on as well but that's about all I can bring myself to type at this point.
We're still planning to get out of here by the end of the month. Sheesh.
Saturday, October 16, 2010
Last Day of Work!
In all honesty, we should say "last day of getting paid to work" because we still have plenty of work ahead of us. Preparing a 42 year old boat is certainly not labor free and neither is cruising it. Anyway, Friday the 15th was the last day of our jobs at UCSB. Christine's co-workers took us out for lunch and bowling and showered her with gifts. She got the food storage containers she's been wanting for the boat (seriously, she's been obsessing about tupperware), balloons, flowers, gift certificates, and cake. It was amazing. I don't think either of us expected such an awesome send off.Santa Barbara has never really felt like home for us the way Santa Cruz did for both of us and the way San Francisco was for me but I know we're going to miss our Santa Barbara friends and coworkers. We both feel incredibly fortunate to have had such great jobs while we lived in SB and such great friends and co-workers. I have never worked with a better group of people and Will McClintock is hands down the best boss I've ever worked for.












